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29th August 2018, 01:46 AM #1TomTom Expert
TomTom older Models not holding charge
You may think because your older model is useless as it loses charge, almost as soon as you did connect from the vehicle or charge point. Well many used the NiCD or lead acid batteries with a "sort of memory thingy"
It is true, to a certain amount, but there are ways to actually beat them, and it will cost you nothing and prolong the life of "dead rechargeable" batteries.
It is quite easy really and you do not have to be that smart to do it. All you have to do is. Really make sure the battery is dead. Leave it connected to your item. If it shows any life, , just keep on making sure it is dead. (you could connect a bulb or anything that will really make it dead. When totally flat. Then you can recharge it, and it regains it's potential and acts like it used to. My example was my dad's lantern. He left it switched on, but was dead 5 years before we cleared house. Lantern charged up, and runs fine for 9 hours. Try the same, but do not wait until your dad dies. Dave and a few others know what I did for a living in the past, covering chemistry, battery physics, distribution and some covert things
BTW, I know the boss of GP Batteries, and his other companies, as a friend and as an advisor. Not just batteriesthe Maverick Reviewed by the Maverick on . TomTom older Models not holding charge You may think because your older model is useless as it loses charge, almost as soon as you did connect from the vehicle or charge point. Well many used the NiCD or lead acid batteries with a "sort of memory thingy" It is true, to a certain amount, but there are ways to actually beat them, and it will cost you nothing and prolong the life of "dead rechargeable" batteries. It is quite easy really and you do not have to be that smart to do it. All you have to do is. Really make sure the Rating: 5One day, someone might make things work perfectly before release. Sadly not in my or your lifetime. At least by finding problems and sorting them, we are still alive.
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10th October 2018, 05:30 PM #2
Can you expand on this? I've got a Go 720 and it doesn't hold a charge. I can use it in the car because it's plugged into the lighter, but as soon as I unplug it, after a few seconds I'll get a low battery warning. If I come back to it the next day, it won't power on. If I then charge it up for a couple of hours from the mains adapter, it's just like when it's been in the car - it will run for a short time, show "Low battery", then power down.
I guess what I'm asking is - surely once it goes off after showing the warning, the battery is now dead? How do I make it "more dead" than dead? Or is it just a sign that my battery really is no good?
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10th October 2018, 07:06 PM #3
Take advantage of this
Lifespan
On average, Li-Ion batteries have a lifetime of 3 years. The life span of a battery starts to decrease when the battery leaves the factory.
Li-Ion batteries have a minimal self-discharge. So you could safely put your full batteries away and use them again a few months later.
You then still have almost full capacity available. Although, the fuller the battery is put away, the faster the battery starts to oxidize inside and thus the lifespan decreases.
If you do not use the batteries for a longer period of time, put them away while there is still some 60-70% capacity. This is about 3.7 volts.
In short: the lifetime of the battery depends on the degree of charging and discharging. Several tests show that when a Li-Ion battery is fully charged to 4.2 volts,
the number of charging cycles is around 500. When the battery is charged to just 90% (equal to 4.1 volts), more than 1000 charging cycles are feasible.
It is therefore not entirely unwise to measure the battery with a multimeter.
Source ledscherp.nl
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11th October 2018, 12:28 AM #4
Thanks for that. I suspect the battery is probably beyond salvaging now, though the unit works perfectly (thanks to this site, and another one earlier on) as long as it's connected to the lighter. I may have a play with various charging options, though I'm not sure I want to keep removing the back to check how high the voltage has gone.
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The Following 1 Users Say Thank You to grumbleweed For This Useful Post:
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pe1agp (11th October 2018)
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11th October 2018, 01:35 AM #5
It's pretty cheap & easy enough to simply replace the battery.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to biggerdave For This Useful Post:
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11th October 2018, 02:15 AM #6
wel known auction site has go 720 batteries for around £7.00, well know video site has tutorials for free ... last one I did took less than 20 minutes start to finish
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The Following 1 Users Say Thank You to Entwood For This Useful Post:
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biggerdave (11th October 2018)
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11th October 2018, 02:36 AM #7
What are the specifications of that battery?
I have two more that fit into a GO 910 or Rider v2
round bar 2.67 inc diameter 0.728 inch
2300 mAh 3.7 volt 8.5 Wh
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11th October 2018, 04:56 AM #8
If you need to use a TT outside the car for a couple of hours and don't want to change the battery, get a phone charger and USB lead.
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pe1agp (11th October 2018)
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11th October 2018, 10:41 AM #9
Also an exellent idea and they are going still lless expencive
But once you still need to replace the battery or remove it because mine Rider v2 refused to start at all with a realy compleet dead battery, which I didn't expected in the first place
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Alfred_ML (11th October 2018)
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11th October 2018, 02:42 PM #10
You can use the Go 720 by this way, but there's a risk to damage the charging unit of your go 720, if the battery get sometime at the end of their life a cell-short circuit. Better change the Li-Ion battery. The disassembling of the Go x20/30 is very easy, there are many instructions and videos. The hardest thing is the black glue that secures the battery to the board. Warm up and pry gently...
By the way: Which TT has a NiCd battery?
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Alfred_ML For This Useful Post:
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biggerdave (11th October 2018), pe1agp (11th October 2018)
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